I woke up
the next morning groggy and grumpy. My phone and tracker weren’t connecting and
I had been out of contact with home for too long. I was stiff and sore and I was
about to put my still soaked socks and shoes back on. The morning was dry but
the skies threatened (promised?) rain and I knew from other hikers that the forecast
called for rain for the next 4 days. Muddy water seeped from my shoelaces as I
tied them. I tried to feel hopeful but it was clear that, soon enough, it
wouldn’t even matter. It was going to be another soggy day on the trail. I
thought about Bluebird and her family, still sound asleep in their blankets
(yes, blankets) and some sick part of me was momentarily comforted by knowing
that no matter how bad it got for me…it was worse for them.
The Smoky Mountains are a lesson in timing. Most people probably think they will learn all about perseverance…but that isn’t what I learned. In the Smokies, you can give up all day long. I quit a dozen times a day – once an hour. It didn’t matter, because there is only one way out and for someone like Bluebird and her family, that ‘way’ could take four days to reach. Even for someone who is moving pretty quickly, it’s at least a day or two – so you can quit all you like as long as the timing is right. As long as things look brighter as you pass over Interstate 441…the single road you cross in the eighty miles of this mountain range.
The Smoky Mountains are a lesson in timing. Most people probably think they will learn all about perseverance…but that isn’t what I learned. In the Smokies, you can give up all day long. I quit a dozen times a day – once an hour. It didn’t matter, because there is only one way out and for someone like Bluebird and her family, that ‘way’ could take four days to reach. Even for someone who is moving pretty quickly, it’s at least a day or two – so you can quit all you like as long as the timing is right. As long as things look brighter as you pass over Interstate 441…the single road you cross in the eighty miles of this mountain range.
And whether
strategic or coincidence…the place where 441 cuts through the mountains is the
kindest and gentlest and most beautiful of all the trail. Along this section,
the birds sing, the sun shines and the clouds settle into the creases between the
peaks in a way that resembles the ocean surf hugging the rocks. Along this
section, the sun is always rising…or setting…and tranquility washes over you.
The sounds of the cars and trucks, the people and their hectic, rushing lives, seems
harsh and aggressive set against this backdrop.
So, this is
how the Smokies really mind fuck you (sorry Grandma)…mark my words. You will stroll
across 441 thinking all is well in the world, your luck is looking up, your legs,
back and shoulders are acclimating, you’re more attractive, thinner and more
financially stable. Seriously, I need to research whether opiates grow in the
area. But I promise you, you will cruise right on through despite having just
been weeping openly and praying that a bear would just come along and eat you
and end your misery. You will CHOOSE to continue…of your own free will…and once
441 is in the distance and you can no longer hear the tractor trailers huffing
and puffing their way through the pass, the Smokies will pull off their mask
and reveal their true power. They will unleash their furry and you will have to
suffer every single step knowing it’s your own damn fault.
I realize this was a dark post...it's not all doom and gloom, I promise. Here are
some scenes from the Smoky Mountains. Hope you don't mind a zillion selfies…
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